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Brace woods http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=1560 |
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Author: | FrankC [ Sun Apr 03, 2005 9:52 am ] |
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I remember reading somewhere that you should, ideally, use the same wood for braces as the top wood. Example, cedar braces on cedar tops. Does that make any difference in sound? Also, does everyone use the same back brace wood as they do for the top? If I were to use mahogany for the back bracing, would that make a difference over using the same as the top brace wood? |
Author: | Shawn [ Sun Apr 03, 2005 1:56 pm ] |
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While it is common to use the same type of wood for braces as top,it is not set in stone. The difference in sound is more about how the stiffness of a bracing wood changes the resonance and any sound color the type of brace wood adds. Some builders prefer brace wood of Adirondack Red spruce for strength. Greg Byers actually uses a main brace of maple on his classicals to focus more of the vibration of the top to the lower bout. Mahogany is a good match for bracing for a back for a steel string. I only build classical so I tend to use the same brace wood as the top. |
Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Sun Apr 03, 2005 1:58 pm ] |
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Hi Frank-- I've heard that before-- about bracing the top with the identical species as the top. I wonder who actually started that one? You want light and stiff, and it doesn't matter how you accomplish it. Ok, you want stable, too, so I shouldn't be so cavalier w/ a hasty response. Cedar braces make me a bit uncomfortable. I'd stick w/ spruce. (This is the steel string maker coming out in me.) I only use the same back brace wood (as the top braces) IF it's on hand. Ervin Somogyi enjoys using mahogany braces-- maybe Spanish cedar-- as it gives a unified look against the linings. And he certainly doen't use that for top braces. His guitars don't suffer over much because of that. |
Author: | Josh H [ Sun Apr 03, 2005 2:15 pm ] |
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Frank I have used spruce for all my tops (I have only built steel so far) no matter what the top wood is. I would agree with Steve, I am more concerned about strength than I am about having the same types of woods. Josh |
Author: | EricKeller [ Sun Apr 03, 2005 2:20 pm ] |
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Mohogony is kinda a special case, since it works well as a top wood. I just can't see wasting a batch of it by splitting it to get rid of runout though. |
Author: | Dave Rector [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 12:59 am ] |
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Can anyone recommend a good source for buying bracewood? |
Author: | rlabbe [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 1:25 am ] |
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It's very common to use spruce braces on a cedar classical top. Friederich was also known for using cedar braces on a spruce top. It's all what works for you and your design. |
Author: | Brock Poling [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 1:30 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Dave Rector] Can anyone recommend a good source for buying bracewood? [/QUOTE] I am shifting to mostly adirondack for everything. I got some very nice stuff from Steve @ Colonial and from Adirondackspruce.com. |
Author: | Steve Kinnaird [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 4:23 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Dave Rector] Can anyone recommend a good source for buying bracewood? [/QUOTE] And if you want some Sitka, call Larry Trumble at Wood Marine. 907-755-2278. Fax: 907-755-2511. |
Author: | Dave Rector [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 5:44 am ] |
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Thanks guys! I put them all in my notebook for future reference. |
Author: | LanceK [ Mon Apr 04, 2005 5:48 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Dave Rector] Can anyone recommend a good source for buying bracewood? [/QUOTE] I just got a VERY nice batch of Adirondack brace wood from Steve at Colonial Tonewood |
Author: | FrankC [ Tue Apr 05, 2005 8:59 am ] |
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Thanks Guys. For some reason I thought I remembered reading that in Cumpianos book but couldn't find it when I looked. Thanks for the input. I too have just used sitka but I haven't built that many. I always thought mahogany for the back braces gave amore "professional" look but then again, what do I know? ![]() |
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